Frog on the Road

January 5th....Chiapas region San Cristobal to Pelenque

2009-03-11T08:59:00.000-07:00

note: Photo Albums added on the right!..still playing catch up ...and now back to Chiapas...

Jan 05 Mexico Chiapas - thru Zapatista territory
From Zipolite we headed inland into the beautiful Chiapas region in southern Mexico, home of the EZLN and Zapatista territory...

these first pics are from friends from Uruguay, Elianna and Jimene, who we actually did not meet until briefly in Guatemala and then met again in Nicaragua, where we became much closer...they went to a village and were invited to meet some of the EZLN... the Zapatista movement has been somewhat "put down" by the Mexican government, but as we see is still alive in the more remote villages...they don the balaclavas whenever "outsiders" are around.

Jan 5th - San Cristobal de la Casas
I really like the city of San Cristobal. Standing in the square brought back vivid memories of the last time I was here with my good friend Joseph in Jan '07. I had bought a Toyota truck in Puerto Vallarta and we traveled down the coast intending to go into Guatemala and further south, but when we tried to cross the border they wouldn't let the truck in as it wasn't titled correctly. We came back to San Cristobal to assess the situation an decided to separate, me heading back 5 days to P. Vallarta to sort out the truck and Joseph carrying on into Central America. It was a special moment as we shared a final "Boots" cigarrette, one of many on that trip, and said our goodbyes...good to be back to revisit that.

this dude was a very strange marketing gimmick indeed, his job to entice the tourists into their "store" to buy something!...from a Farmacia?...condoms maybeeeee?

Readying to leave our hostel for Palenque with Stefan ad Nicole...

A very cool moto spied by Stefan...

Can't remember where this was but dem Grosses are everywhere!..

Drying coffee on the side of the road in the Chiapas highlands coffee growing region

Jan 8th Cascades de Agua Azul enroute to Palenque

Some very spectacular natural beauty(s)" here...

and still in the heart of Zapatista teritorry

Jan 09.09 Palenque

Palenque was my first Mayan ruins, pretty amazing...(more pics in Photo Albums on the right tab)
Our camping spot near Palenque required navigating over some small narrow bridges to get into the "jungle"...was a great spot however we were kept up all night by a "loco mujare" (crazy woman) camped near us in her hammock who was traveling and camping with no less than 3 little yappy white dogs that she would leave by themselves all day and go party...wee bit of a bitch me thinks...very often hard to get a good nights sleep in Mexico...

This bus had come from California and was full of "muy bonita muchahchas" on an adventure ...they were very inviting and I was very tempted to ditch mi moto and climbed aboard for a while!

To our surprise we met up with Baz (from the U.K.) again in Palenque...first connected with him in Zipolite but he was anxious to get moving and headed out days ahead of us. Turns out he had a bit of an "encounter" in the village of Chiapas de Coro when he hit an old man who stepped out on the street unexpectedly resulting in a broken. The police came and after assessing the scene suggested that they leave now as the crowd that had gathered was getting snarly...they took Baz away in the police cruiser while one of the cops rode his bike...he thought they were becoming "mates" as they fed him and took him for a test ride in the cruiser getting to 160mph all the while assuring him it was not his fault...then they unexpectedly took him to a grungy "Mexican jail" off the main square where he spent a very unnerving night amongst another 100 or so "inmates" grasping at him thru the bars...the story made the front page of the local rag...poor bastard!

After Palenque I was still uncertain weather I wanted to go up around the Yucatan or keep heading south...that morning I left with Stefan and Nicole but after 30 minutes driving my body/mind kept hollering me to turn around, so I signalled to them to stop and we said our goodbyes and I headed back to San Cristobal. Upon turning around I immediately began to feel relaxed and knew I was on "the right path" as they say....in San Cristobal I ran into to Baz again and we crossed the "fronterra" into Guatemala the next morning together...the journey continues...

March 07.09

2009-02-05T12:43:00.000-08:00

March.07.09 - Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

Hola Amigos y Amigas….. landed here in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica a few days ago after a week on the backroads of Nicoya Peninsula doing hot and dusty dirt roads with lots of exciting river crossings (lots of fun)....was here in PV last year for 6 weeks, great place but has rained the whole time here ... first rain since leaving Vancouver...It's OK tho as it gives me some cacooning time to catch up on things....interesting to be here again in a totally different space than I was in last year...feeling pretty good .

...visiting friends (James + Marise) here for a bit then on to Panama City to cross the Darien gap into Columbia - for quite a while now I have felt much more attracted to getting into S. America asap - and particularly excited about Columbia, every traveler we have met in the last few months, either backpacker or biker, who has come north has said that Columbia was without question the highlight of their trip, very friendly people, great countryside, and safer has it has ever been, and totally underrated... I plan to spend some good time there exploring the country, may even rent a place for a while, but we'll see ...

Keeping the blog updated is proving kinda challenging for me, especially when I get way behind like I am now.
Also, I am noticing that at times the blog reads like more of a chronological recount and I think that can get a bit boring so have decided to include more of what I am thinking and feeling.

Sometimes on this trip there have been moments where I have wondered what the hell I am really doing. People often ask me about my “vacation”, but somehow it doesn't feel like I am on a vacation. Yes there are the typical things like the adventure of meeting new and interesting people, restaurants, great places to visit, some amazing sights and of course not working, but it feels very different than a vacation. I am not sure if it is about traveling on two wheels and the freedom that brings to go places that are more difficult than traveling by backpack, but more than likely has to do with ending everything back in Canada and not really being sure if and when I will go “home”.

This recent period in my life has brought so much change that its hard to imagine my life as it was. Each day I wake to start the day not knowing what will be next. Sometimes this is exciting but often I still feel much anxiety and fear about the future, although this anxiety seems to wain the more I am traveling and I am happy about that.

Over the last two years I ended my life as it was back in Canada, my relationship with Leela, living with my three sons, my 33 year career, my home, city and pretty well everything else that defined me and my life as it was. I sold virtually all my “stuff” except for my guitars, bought the bike and left with very little planning. It has made for a very different journey and for me for sure has very different feeling than a vacation but is hard to articulate. Most "travelers" I meet know that they will eventually return to their home to resume their lives in familiar, comfortable and predictable surroundings and therefore are definitely on a vacation. Other than to visit family and friends, I don't when I will return home and that open endedness is both exciting and often a bit daunting. Actually it is not totally open ended as at some point money becomes an issue, but for now I prefer not to think about that.

The decision to buy a bike and head south did not come easy. I had returned from some travel last winter and lived for nine months in Gibsons with my sons. While it was wonderful to have all three sons together and be with them during this time, it was also a very difficult time filled with some depression and much anxiety about my future, constantly worrying about what is next in my life, where would I go, what would I do and had much difficulty making decisions. It was a time of feeling total emptiness with absolutely no attraction or inspiration to do anything. The only thing that felt right was to keep selling off or getting rid of my “stuff”.

As September was drawing nearer, each of my three sons were moving to different cities and it was kinda like...”O.K. Lee what the hell are you going to do, where are you going to go?”. In all my years of working I had many places that I wanted to visit but couldn´t, and now I had somehow created the possibility to go anywhere in the world I wanted but had no idea where to go as in the emptiness there was absolutely nothing attracting me. The thought of grabbing my backpack and traveling didn't excite me at all, mostly because I would need to pick at least a starting destination and I couldn't. The only thing that had any juice at all was the idea of getting on the bike because I didn't need to have a destination. Also I discovered that the sensation of movement when getting on the bike also seemed to calm my now relentless anxiety. However, I feel the most beneficial effect for me is that when riding a moto, I am forced to be completely present in every moment, and this is magnified when traveling on roads in the “two thirds” world as it is much more dangerous. Its a great metaphor for life really as one never knows whats around the next corner of the “long and winding road”. I am not sure if it has been the "carrot" or the "stick" that is the motivation; has it been an escape from something or a moving to a new way of living life?...I like think it´s about “making a life" because like many, I am tired of “making a living".....ahhhh, but for now we go way, way back to Guanajuato, Mexico...

Dec. 10.08 - Guanajuato

Guanajuato seems like a long time ago now. I ended up staying there nine days, doing a whole lot of nothing. Guess I needed the rest after the challenges of Copper Canyon as my body was still pretty sore, but more so I figure it might have had something to do with the fact that the local indigenious meaning for “Guana” means “Frog” and “Guanajuato” means - “Mountainous place of frogs”...ribbit, ribbit...

This old gal was keeping an eye on things from her perch overlooking the plaza, making sure the locals didn't get out of line I'm sure....Mexican made moto..

Alas US influence is ever expanding as the first Starbucks opened that week. Unfortunately their disposable technology was evident in the trash everywhere very quickly, too bad, as most coffee shops still serve in a real mug.

Dec. 15.08 - Boca de le Canada

Wound my way thru this really cool tunnel as I had to see the Rio de La Canada of course.

Dec 16.08 – Zinapecuro (near Morellia)

From this bridge I figured there might be a nice camping spot on the lake off in the distance and headed there for the night. Enroute I found some “Aguas Termales” and some nice hot water sounded pretty good to my weary bones. Was kinda weird having the whole waterpark to myself, but with a 40 degree hot pool a few steps from my tent and the Temazcal very close by, a natural steam bath coming up from the ground, who am I to complain...muy bien...while in the pool I met the mayor of a nearby city, Zitacuaro. He gave me his card and said to call him directly if I needed anythng at all. He suggested I visit Ocambo to witness the yearly migartion of the Marisco Manarco???...what's dat?, I said.

Dec. 19.08 – Ocambo

Every year the Marisco Manarco (Monarch Butterflies) migrate over 4000 miles from Canada no less, to this tiny spot in Mexico. So amazing to be in a swarm of hundreds of thousands of butterflies, very sureal

experience and naturally creates a space of profound silence...the pictures speak for themselves...

This shrine/altar was along the road to the butterflies and marks the spot where some relative died on the road. These are ubiquitous in Mexico and throughout most countries in Latin America.

Dec. 20.08 – Valle de Bravo

Of course I needed to stop and check out the local Parapente (Paragliding) scene in “Valle” and figured I might go for a flight. Many pilots I know consider this their favourite flying spot. Was pretty cool place to fly but since I hadnt been in the air for at least 18 months since having a fe crashes, I was feeling pretty tentative, OK fearful, about flying in a new place not knowing the mountain. Things just didn't feel right so I didn't go...Maybe I'm just not ready to get back in the air just yet and convinced myself it would be better get back in the sadlle in familiar surroundings.

Dec. 22.08 – Izucar de Matamoros

Not much happening here but obviously sugar cane was the local industry for generations... and here in this quiet place I had discovered the original source of the unfolding world wide financial crises...

One of the things that I am really enjoying about travelling by moto is that I am forced to be very present all the time, no drifting off into thought at least while moving, because, kinda like life, one never knows what´s around the next corner...almost hit one of these dudes at speed...muy pelgroso si!

Some of the many species of cacti.

Dec. 23.08 Oaxaca Cuidad

Oaxaca was the location of the protests in 2006. The Mexican National police force (PCP) was sent in to restore order and a New York journalist was shot in the stomach and killed in broad daylight. I didn´t stay long here as the exhaust pollution was really affecting me making it hard to breath and also that by now I am getting kinda tired of the cities, longing for more countryside.

Dec. 24.08 – San Jose del Pacifico

This village was at 2300 meters asl on the road from Oaxaca to the Pacific Coast. Muy bonito (very beautiful) but muy frio (very cold). Its claim to fame is Magic Mushrooms and a destination for “seekers of the truth of the fungi”...the local art scene expressed the mighty phallic fungi quite wel thru these wood carvingsl...I figured they needed something eciting to put in the Lonely Planet that would attract some kind of tourism business cause there really wasnt much there apart from the beaty of the mountainous landscape, which was unique to this area and not common in Mexico, remind me of back home in B.C....

the local butcher right in the open on main street...figured my son Dustin would get a kick from how the local abotores (meat cutters) use a specail axe to cut ribs, etc

this fricken “loco pollo” (crazy chicken) was attempting to make a meal from my spokes and tires, while I worked on mi moto, had to be really hungry...

Some mountain pueblos on the way down to the coast...notice the crops, mostly maize (corn) on pretty steep hillsides.

Dec 25.08 – Feliz Navidad – Xmas day in Zipolite

Aaaaah... Zipolite, what can I say, perhaps my favourite place in Mexico, always pretty tranquillo , even when

busy...arrived on Christmas day and spied a couple of F650GS's owned by Stefan and Nicole from Switzerland at Kikos so camped there on the beach with them...went into inertia mode again here for 10 days or so...nice to be warm again in the sunshine on the beach, and great sunsets and sunrises, you get both in Zipolite as well a wonderful display of suntans on the nude beach

My office in the back of Kikos

Puerto Angel

This dude was always hanging around, guarding the entrance to Puerto Angel, looked mean but really he never had much to say.

Very, very strange to see a camel in Mexico...poor thing could barely keep its balance in the trailer as the truck drove around town with the speakers blasting about the camel show happening in nearby Pochutla.

December 10.08

2008-12-11T15:57:00.000-08:00

Guanajuato
Coming to you live from the city of Guanajuato now, been here since Sunday, near San Miguel de Allende northwest of Mexico City...a very interesting city with a "european" feel, built on top of a maze of tunnel road systems...very cool...my body is enjoying the rest and time to heal...may take a Spanish course here but feeling really lazy...and have been way behind with an update so here goes...

Way back in La Paz

Ended up staying in LaPaz for five days..was on my way to by a ticket for the 18 hour ferry to Mazatlan when Bill and Sue from the UK and Miguel from Portland pulled to the hotel on road bikes...Bill and Sue were intending to take the ferry next day to Topolabambo and then drive down to Mazatlan. I decided to stay over and go with them...they were on kinda "tight" schedule meeting a boat in Rio de Janeiro to go to South Africa in 7 weeks....not sure how they could make it in that time frame but hey, what do I know?...I have seen a few rode bikes doing this journey now and realized that I didn't need the kind of bike I have for this, assuming I stay more on the pavement...maybe I will...we shall seeeeeeeeee...won't we?

As we were about to leave for the ferry the next day, Jason from San Fransico riding an old R100GS, walked in the hotel and asked who owned the bimmer outside...he joned us and we all left together for the 6 hour ferry to Topo and spent the night in Los Mochis (a stinky little city).

Next day we bid farewell to Bill and Sue as they headed south for Mazatlan (hope they make it)...Jason was doing some gentle persuation to convince me to come with him to Copper Canyon...I wasn't so sure... I had already put it out of the equation, partly cause it was back North and gonna be cold, but also I had a rough go on the Baja and was looking forward to some easy riding... eventually we headed north out of town (towards Copper Canyon) and stopped for gas and and oil change for Jason...my intuition was telling me to head south and I just couldn't ignore it...Jason decided to let go of CC and we both headed south towards Mazatlan as well. An hour down the road I realized that I left my backpack in the hotel. It was getting late so we turned around and headed back to Los Mochis for another night (ugh!) and a few cerveza's...turned out to be an important event as it meant another opportunity to "consider" going to Copper Canyon...

Next day, after more mental masturbation, I decided to go with Jason to Copper Canyon...of course there are no wrong choices, just more experiences, however, now looking back I wonder whether I was going against my own intuition to keep heading south.

The pavimento ended after Choix so I figured I better look around for some padding for my butt...the saddles looked pretty inviting. An old mission on the Rio El Fuerto

...very soon after leaving Choix we ran into these caballeros having a few tailgate cervazas' and asked for some directions on where we might camp.

Tino just jumped on the back of Jason's bike and said we would stay with him and his family, so away we went without thinking too much about it...

was a really great start to our "authentic" Mexican experience getting invited into their home and offered such open and friendly hospitality.

We were fed well with Grandma making fresh tortillas over the fire every meal. The sinora was really amazing and she wouldn't let us leave without first offering us a blessing for our safety.

We left Tinos and headed towards Copper Canyon taking the road thru an active gold mine. We waited at the gate for an escort thru the the minesite...that gate turned out to be a portal into the next part of the adventure and a real different world. The guards told us that 11 bodies were found that morning near there and we soon realized we were heading into dangerous country that was home to drug cartels, violence and the source of much of the drugs running into the U.S. The road to the mine was great but after that we hit what would turn out for me to be "Road from Hell #2"

We camped in an apparently nice spot by the river that night. Soon after setting up camp and having a swim, things got "interesting" as we were joined on the river by five "dudes" who stopped for a swim and cerveza...they offered us a beer and we graciously accepted as it was hard to ignore that they all had "pistolas" stuffed in their jeans...they pulled out a big bud and commenced to get high...it was good that Jason was fluent in Spanish as they warmed up to us quickly as we nervously laughed and joked with them...that evening we "slept peacefully" to the gentle sounds of the nearby river and a melody of semi-automatic gunfire in the surrounding mountains...sorry photos were not appropriate.

Next morning leaving the river required passing thru 20 meters of deep sand where I had the first two of five crashes of the day. Actually they were what is called a "getoff", a slow speed wipe-out where the bike goes down and one "getsoff" , hopefully not doing any damage or getting hurt.

Very soon we hit the first of six river crossings, most luckily no deeper than my knees. On the first crossing, in the lead and not having any experience, I just plowed into it hoping to muddle my way across. Haha...not so lucky...

half way thru I hit a big boulder and went down wildy, submerging myself in the river with the bike on its side in two feet of water, still running, and my right leg trapped underneath the pannier...my 3rd crash in the as yet still early day...there I was, stuck in flowing water, kinda freaky for sure, as I waited for help from Jason to get the bike off me...he wiped out walking towards me and got soaked as well (he wasn't happy as one is supposed to stop before entering the river to check it out and chart a course)...ooops I'll know better next time.

Here we finished the last of six crossings, helping each other across holding each others bike at the back from falling over. The kids next to us laughed as we emptied our boots now filled to the brim

Some very beautiful scenery along this road but unfortunately, one can't enjoy it much while moving as you don't dare take your eyes of the road directly in front. Back upright yet again after crash #4 of the day...you would think I'd be getting it by now...that one hurt a bit more as it was on hard rock and slippery road surface, and starting to feel a little sore and weary now.

Its now only about noon with the day already filled with "challenge and adventure" and low and behold, I have what turns out to be my 5th and final crash of the day, this one bit more serious. I guess you could call it a bit more than a getoff. By now pretty sore and tired, I hit some loose rock and lost control. Unfortunately, I was very close to the edge and ended up rolling off the edge and down the side of the mountain with the bike rolling over and falling down on top of me as a lay 3 meters down the side of the mountain. A very vivid an frightening image remains in my memory as I lay on my back, hurt watching the bike above me come crashing down on top of me. I was pinned a bit under it when it stopped but was able to get out quickly.

I got out and up O.K. but for a while stared in disbelief at what had happened...was this really happening?, I thought to myself...there was the bike down there, we were in the middle of nowhere with no people around . Fortunately, Jason was level headed and quick into action rigging up some tie-downs and pulley's in a system and we got it uprite and part way back up on the road...fortunately a truck came by with 4 cabelleros and they helped us get it the last bit up to the road...not sure what we would have done without them showing up.

Again, back upright and ready to go?...duh I think!

I was in no shape to ride more so we found a level spot to camp for the night and would head down into Batopilas next day...shortly after setting up camp, a white pickup came up the hill with 5 guys in it...as Jason neared the passenger window to speak with them, he noticed a semi-automatic machine gun in the lap of the passenger...he let them know that we were just camping cause we had soome problems and would be gone asap...they had a VHF radio and spoke with someone then left...shortly another truck came up, this one a 3 ton with the load tarped...they just blew by us without stopping...obviously a load of drugs destined for the U.S....again leaving us feeling very nervous about where we were...we wondered if the night would be filled with the sound of gunfire again....again photos were not appropriate!

The next day we rode for a mile or so but I was pretty sore and spooked. We came upon a casa in the hills and arranged to truck my bike down into Batopilas...really glad I did as the road stayed pretty treacherous all the way.

While in Batopilas, we met up with Matt from Alaska, also on a Dakar identical to mine and Paddy Tyson from Ireland on an Italian Aprilla, who I had already been in contact with by email. Batoplias was a pretty little village, deep in Copper Canyon, with some very nice people, but it also had an edge that was palpable. A lot of blank stares and hollow eyes amongst some of the villagers made it obvious that drugs had come there in a big way and was met with a warryness when saying Hola to many of the locals.

This casa was home to some drug dude and was the site of a shootout between the secret police and the banditos...not sure who won , buts lotsa bulletholes.

I decided to truck my bike rather than ride out as I was pretty spooked from the recent crashes. The road East out of Batopilas up to the pavimento turned out to be pretty good compared to what we had already been on coming down from the West, except for a few rough spots like the road washout, this truck had to wait for the road to be cleared.

Twice we saw a bobcat hung by the neck...not sure what make of it but creepy freaky for sure.

I regretted not riding out as it was a beautiful ride with lots of dirt fun

A nite by the campfire near San Fransisco del Oro and some good grub...no gunfire that nite here but lots of roosters in the morning.

A lunch break by the river.

An earthquake maybe?...a pit stop upon reaching the pavimento again.

Here (somewhere I cant remember) high up the plateau in cattle country we were greeted by a very friendly caballero. He offered us a sample of the tasty vegetarian meal freshly prepared with all the trimmings, so to speak!...Paddy and Jason comparing legs...

The city of Durango at night, appears a few cervezas were in order. Paddy doesn't do so well with the "caliente" Mexican food so cools off his Irish red ness!

Matt having a few challenges with the sand did a few twisty's to his bags and probably some to the body as well...I made it thru that one thanks for askin!

The four Amigos and Paddy having a wee bit o' Irish showoffin'

Matt having some more fun, this time a hard crash at 30mph hitting a cattle guard with a big hole in it...Paddy surveys the crash scene with a chuckle and grin...Them thar Jesse bags are taking a beating but keep on ticking...with a bit of gentle persuasion!...glad its not me for a while!

Getting gas Mexican style...and meeting a "slow" moving vehicle leaving
"tracks" on the "el camino"......heading up to the Mexican altiplano.

Some live action...

Nov 18.08

2008-11-18T21:28:00.000-08:00

In LaPaz, Baja now since Sunday nite... left San Diego Wednesday and had a great drive to El Rosario and finally things getting cheaper...my motel was $250pesos ($22US)...unfortunately found out today that I left my drivers license there...wonder whats next...havent been doing so well on the documentation thing...first lost my bank card and spare credit card in the desert crash, now my license is a dilemma, and I havent been able to find my expired passport which has my still active Visa for Brazil which is good for 5 years (thinking ahead abit)...guess I gotta be more present!

From El Rosario went across the desert back to the Gulf of California, so very beautiful in the desert and so many varied landscapes, spent the nite in Santa Rosalia, quiet little place where I ran into a German couple on an 18 year old BMW Dakar totally loaded, they were heaed to cath the ferry to Guyamas...almost went with them...maybe shoulda...likin that its gettin cheaper...my motel was $150 pesos ($12)

"Volcan Tres Virgines"

A very common road sign in Mexico is "Curva Peligrosa" meaning dangerous curve ahead...pay attention cause they mean it

Next day feeling real lazy and didnt get going till noon....hour later stopped at Mulege, very beautiful oasis..had lunch and then headed to Loreto...was abit worried it was too late already 2:30pm... a bit south of Mulege hit a nice beach with camping...my home for the nite and first swim in the Gulf...Camping $50 pesos ($4)

From Mulege it was south thru Loreto and wonderful road and beautiful drive, till the road headed inland away from the water and the longest straightest boringest stretch of road I have ever been on...200Km and maybe one turn...closer to LaPaz was better

Some amigos

Have had three good riding days and hanging a bit in Lapaz...will get a ferry tomorrow off the Baja for the mainland..probably Mazatland...glad for the rest and break in "adversity" ..my hotel Pesion Hotel Califonia $200pesos ($16) and security for the bike in the lobby...very accomodating!

While at the hotel met a wonderfully adventerous lass, Laura Zick from Moab on a sailing adventure, crewing her way "The Long Way Down"...her current passion is to manifest her own 27' sailboat to go round the world and she'll do it!..we made a gallant attepmt to get my bike on the boat fo the crossing from LaPaz to Mazatlan..would have been a great adventure, but alas, I'll be on tonights ferry instead...bummer

Nov 20 is Le Revoltion Day in Mexico celebrating the anniversary of the "Revolucion"...military didnt seem to have a prolem with it!

Nov 12.08 Update

2008-11-12T10:13:00.000-08:00

Looks like a false start...unfortunately I'm back in San Diego for repairs after some advice (bad) to take a route south thru San Felipe...the "road from hell" was brutal...ran into some "offroaders" that nite who after a 12 hour ride said that stretch was the worst they'd been on that day...all were worried about cut tires etc on the sharp rocks... for me was 5 horas for 50 miles each day...blown shock reservoir after 20 miles...then next day within ten miles of the pavement had another crash at speed in the sand...my tank bag flew off in the crash and wasnt closed fully, whatever was nailed down blew away in the big wind including my bank card and spare credit card...my shoulder hit hard but seems OK, glad it was sand tho the bike and me just missed or own big rocks...bit of front end damage...got lots of off-road experience and more experience than I wanted this early on dealing with adversity... was hard standing on the pegs all day long for the last few days and not much fun riding a pogo stick in desert wind/sand storms, shear winds, etc....he Baja has had its way with me so far...aiming to be back on the road by Tue/Wed and make some miles...not much fun crashing in the middle of the desert all alone ...

In Puertocitos as the pavimento ended I hit 500 metros of freshly dumped sand about 12¨deep...I decided against it and turned around...the guy operating a roller saw my dilemma and said ¨Cmón, follow me¨and he flattened the sand somewhat, without thinking much (good thing) I followed him and made it thru..my highlight of the day and was bouyed with confidence that I could do anything after that (what a fool)...That night had a nice camping spot, stars and bonito sunrise next morning as I prepared to head down the unkowingly ominous Road from Hell (No.1)....

The Road from Hell (No.1)... doesnt´look so bad but very rough, sharp rocks, and washboard...at 10 mph it is a very long road

Back uprite again after my second crash...hadn´t seen a car for over two hours

Coco´s Corner, now about 10 miles from pavement, supposed to be the coldest beer in Mexico, unfortuanetly Coco wasnt around

Oct 31.08 Spent 5 days in LA getting more gear, new chain, sprockets and tires and repairing the bike. The crash at Mono Lake cracked my gas tank and had a major leak. They wanted $425 for a new part but JB weld fixed it better than new, good stuff that JB weld.

Met Thad Wolff in Seattle while getting new seat. He offered to help me out with a place to stay in LA and lots of help gettingready. Many thanks to Thad, Jody and Kelly for their warm hospitality, help with the bike and moral support...

and a funky spot to sleep in the bike trailer.

Leaving LA (finally)..in the rain?

Mon Nov 3.08
I finally set sail into Mexico Monday after many delays leaving San Diego and arriving at the Tijuana border crossing about 4pm...it took a while to get permits etc and I forgot it was now getting dark around 5 pm...by the time I got done it was dark and there I was again, doing what is strongly advised against..."do not drive at night in Mexico" and also driving in Tijuana at night is probably not a good idea either, however after all the delays in getting going I was committed to getting to Ensanada that day come hell or high water...took a wrong turn in Tijuana and went miles on the wrong highway...a great sole helped me get back on track and even drove to show me the way...have met some really great folks so far

Finally in Mexico

Oct 26.08 Update

2008-10-30T11:17:00.000-07:00

Oct 26,08 Update

Its Sunday and I'm in Bishop,CA an hour south of Mono Lake on the East side of the Sierra Nevadas...left Vancouver on Monday in the sunshine but hit rain by Seattle...stayed the night at Salem then hit Albany,OR Tuesday and got suit, boots, etc...Tues PM headed for Boise, ID...got half way, driving at night thru mountain passes was not a good idea and was not fun, even fully layered with heated vest and grips I froze my ass off, winding roads, poor visibility...was needing to stop cause I needed gas and was getting mild hypo but couldnt find town with gas/motel, stopping every 20 min to warm up finally reached Mt. Vernon by 9PM then on to Boise next AM...spent two days in Boise getting luggage and gear...synchronistically ran into a guy named Seth from NY at the BMW shop, also on a F650GS, going from New York to live in Portland, he manages the band called Beduoin Sound Clash...he had his life strapped in a tuppercare container strapped on the back...we did a deal on my old BMW luggage which worked well for both of us...felt really good to help him out and it worked for me not to have to deal with shipping it back to Seattle....

left Boise Friday AM and got to Carson City...had great meal at a great Thai restaurant (more "Food as Medicine" inspiration/information on this later as I forgot my journal/notes in the motel room)...Sat AM had a nice chat with a very nice woman who owns a funky coffee shop...she told be about her adventure to Bali...I asked her out to dinner/dance..she said she was flatterred but said her boyfriend would have a problem with that...oh darn, dancing would be good...Sat PM decided to stay in the area and circumnavigate Lake Tahoe (gorgeous up there) and then headed back to Carson City for the night...same cheap motel $30 and more great Thai food...

Had an interesting day today...struggled with getting going, some fear and having second thoughts of what am I getting myself into, etc ...left Carson City 11AM and headed south down the east side of the Sierra Nevadas'.... two hours on I spied a gravel road from the vista lookout above Mono Lake and figured it was time to test my non-existant off road skills...was a little sketchy for sure but OK, then about a mile in, I hit some really deep sand... oops imagine that!... fucking sand in the desert!...went down pretty quick with the right pannier coming to rest on my lower leg...guess I did that one a bit wrong as the alum panniers are supposed to protect my leg...lucky it was soft sand, made it easier to get my leg out with no major damage, a little sore in the calf but other than a little rattled, bike and me no damage....good opportunity to test picking up the bike, etc...then in the motel parking lot here in Bishop I couldnt get the bike on the centre stand with all the extra gear weight and it went over again...building confidence of being able to get myself out of a jam tho and getting some practise of whats ahead I'm sure. ....Poor Bike..oucchhh!

Not making many miles each day and having a hard time just getting going early...guess I'm liking the safety/familiarity of the US as I get my rythym and more comfortable with the bike, gear, etc..I imagine its also the fear that when I cross into Mexico and on to Central
America its like setting sail on the open ocean in a ship I dont know very well and I see myself avoiding it a bit Feeling tired and resting up my swollen leg...we'll see what tomorrow brings...will probably hit LA tomorrow...need to get the bike serviced soon either LA or Sand Diego....thinking I need a few more days in the US ensuring I'm ready before heading into Mexico...also not confident that my offroad skills are up to this journey...perhaps I should hang out and take a course but the only one I know of is not until middle of Nov and I dont really want to wait that long... yikes leaving soon!

Back upright again and ready to go